This site is of great importance and very attractive for bird watchers. In the Bocas del Polochic area, 313 resident species have been recorded, that is to say, 48% of all the birds in Guatemala and 89 species of migratory birds (Seglung & Conner, 1997).
The best time of the year to watch birds is during the months of migration. If you come during non-migration months, you can see great numbers of nesting Neotropic (Olivaceous) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus). This bird lays about 200 eggs in the same nest in the upper parts of the trees.
The wildlife refuge is very important because it constitutes wetlands that control the water between the Polochic River and its feeders, as for example the Cahabón River. The wetlands of the Polochic River have a great biodiversity, serving as host to endangered species, such as the manatee (Trichecus manatus) and the crocodile (Crocolylus moreletii).

Location: The Municipal District of El Estor, Department of Izabal
Area: 20,760 hectares (Conap, 2006)

by Francois Herrera

Fundacion Defensores de la Naturaleza

CLIMATE
The climate in this region is hot and there is abundant rainfall. Locally, from 2,000 to 4,000 mm of annual rainfall have been recorded, which are spread throughout the whole year, although there are some months when it rains less, such as December through April (Villar, 1993).

VEGETATION
Ninety-eight percent (98%) of the trees belong to only 5 species: Guyana chestnut (Pachira aquatica), lemonwood (Calolpyllum brasilense), “sangre” (Virola koschnyi) and “cafecillo” (Casearia javitensis). The areas subject to flooding are the ones with the greatest cover of original trees (Anonymous, 1997 c).

NATURAL SPOTS
• RIO OSCURO: At this river as well as at the rest of the affluents and rivers of Bocas you can observe howler monkeys, turtles, iguanas, nutrias and great numbers of birds.

CONTACTS
To visit the Wildlife Refuge, contact the headquarters of Defensores de la Naturaleza in El Estor with Heidy Garcia. Tel: (502) 7949-7130, 7949-7237 E-mail: hgarcia@defensores.org.gt

GETTING THERE
1.Take the Atlantic Highway (CA-9) from Guatemala City and after about a 4-hour drive, at Km. 247, you get to La Ruidosa (the turnoff to Rio Dulce), where you must turn left towards the Rio Dulce. At the Trincheras junction make a left to Mariscos (15km) and from there to Playa Dorada. Follow the road straight to Selempin Station (no turnoffs). The route takes you through a private farm, so you may have to pay a toll of about Q50. You will need to get permission beforehand from Defensores de la Naturaleza. Site Map
2. From Guatemala City take the Atlantic Highway (CA-9). After the turnoff at La Ruidosa, drive 30 Km to the Rio Dulce bridge. After crossing the bridge you will get to the town of Fronteras, where you should turn left at a large sign which says “Hacia El Estor.” This road is partially paved and the rest is an all weather road which is in very good condition. From the turnoff to El Estor it is about an hour’s drive.
If you chose to travel by public transportation, see Bus Companies.
At the dock in El Estor you take the Defensores de la Natauraleza boat to go to the Selempin Scientific Station, which takes about an hour and a half across Lake Izabal. From the dock of the Station you have to walk about 5 blocks. Take care not to slip on the dock, since it is quite long and the wooden surface is sometimes wet. This route is longer and more expensive than the first alternative.

BIRDING SPOTS
Scientific Station and surroundings
At the scientific station you have to walk a ways to find birds. This station is located at the foot of two great hills with lush vegetation, which are not far from the Sierra de las Minas, making this place into part of the biological corridor and an excellent place for taking photographs.
Behind the station there is a small trail called Las Cotuzas, where you can see the Montezuma Oropendola (Psarocolius montezuma) or, if you look up into the trees, in the afternoon you can see the Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus) and the Collared Aracari (Pteroglosus torquatus).
At one part of the road, just behind the hills of the station, there is a mother of cacao (Gliricidia sepium) fence, where you can see the Violaceous Trogon (Trogon violaceus), the Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota), the Masked Tityra (Tityra semifasciata) and the Brown Jay (Cyanocorax morio).

On the road to the Zarquito River
On the road to the source of the Zarquito River, you can see many species, since it goes along a border which separates a virgin forest from a pasture. In the high trees of the pastures it is easy to observe the Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis) and, in the trees with high dry branches, you can easily see the Black-cheeked Woodpecker (Centurus pucherani) which normally appears in pairs, and also the Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus).
When you get to the creek which leads to the Zarquito River, in the tops of some trees, such as the corozo palm (Orbignya cohune), you can see the Wood Stork (Mycteria americana). And at the creek you can watch the Ringed Kingfisher (Ceryle torquata) and the Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle americana).

Waterways
An option to watch birds in a very original manner is to rent a small boat from Alfonso, the man in charge of the Station, who will charge Q15 to Q20 (US$2-US$3) for transportation, which price includes the tip. The river trip takes an hour going and another hour coming back, and only the boatman and one passenger can go. This river has a very particular characteristic: its waters, as its name implies, are almost black along some places of the ride, which is due to the amount of tanines and chemical compounds which the plants give off in the river. During certain parts of this trip you can actually see this dark substance flowing in.
Here you can see the Violaceous Trogon (Trogon violaceus) and the Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata). In addition on this boat trip you can really get to see the vegetation, like for instance a considerable stand of the Guyana chestnut (Pachira aquatica).
Another option is to take the waterway from Selempin (always in the company of someone from the Foundation), which goes along the Rio Oscuro, the Amatillo Lagoon, the Polochic River, Punta Comercio and the Lagartos Cove. All of these areas, apart from being excellent bird watching places, have varied fauna. You will be able to see and hear the howler monkeys (Alouata pigra), the northern tamandua (Tamandua mexicana) and turtles of different species. In addition, the are records of crocodiles (Crocodylus moreletii) and of the manatee (Trinchechus manatus), but these animals are more difficult to see.

FDN	FDN
Green-backed Heron / FDN

SERVICES

At the Selempin Scientific Station:

SERVICE	RATE	FACILITIES
LODGING	Q50(US$7) per person per night	Electric light (find out beforehand; solar panels may be damaged) Lack of maintenance Two dormitory-style rooms with bunk beds for men and women One private cabin Beds with sheets and mosquito netting Shared bathrooms and showers (cold water) Hammocks 26 persons maximum
FOOD	Q20-Q30 per person (breakfast and dinner) Q30-Q50 per person (lunch)	Plates, pans and an old stove (no refrigerator), dining room
TRANSPORTATION	Q1,200 (US$156) for a group of a maximum of 10 persons Q30-Q50	Launch service: El Estor-Selempin and Selempin-El Estor Guided tours in small boats near the station

* Using current exchange rate Q7.67/US$1.

FDN

FDN

by Francois Herrera

ATTRACTIONS ALONG THE WAY:
Along the way from El Estor to Selempin, you can see many resident and migratory aquatic birds. You will be able to admire the Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens) with its wings that form a perfect right angle, allowing it to fly at great speed. There are species of terns such as the Caspian Tern (Sterna caspia) and the Royal Tern (Sterna maxima), which are migratory. If you are lucky, you will be able to view the American White Pelican (Pelecanus erythrorhyncos), which was seen for the first time in the Bocas region in January of 1999. When you get close to the mouth of the Rio Oscuro or to the Polochic, you can watch the Osprey (Pandion haliaetus). In these places you can see tree trunks which have been swept along by the current and these are strategic points for watching perched birds such as the Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis). Something very common in the Bocas area are the large flocks of American Coot (Fulica americana), with 600 or more individuals, and the same occurs with the Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors). Along the coastal region, you can easily see small flocks of Northern Jacana (Jacana spinosa).
When you enter the Rio Oscuro, the secondary vegetation mixes with the river-bank forest, which allows for the presence of other birds. On the lower parts of the trees or trunks, it is common to see five species of kingfishers. The herons are a very common group on this river, as is the case of the Bare-throated Tiger-Heron (Tigrisoma mexicanum), a species normally seen in the middle part of the trees and can easily be recognized because of its song. Another common species in this area is the Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga).

ALTERNATIVES

Rio Dulce
This National Park covers an area of about 7,200 hectares. Lake Izabal empties into the Rio Dulce and then into Amatique Bay. There are two types of ecosystems here: the land section is represented by the Tropical Rain Forest and by the mangrove and interior lagoon systems.
This is the starting point for many cultural and natural tourist attractions, such as Livingston, El Estor, the Chocón Machacas Biotope or the Rio Dulce itself.
Access: Take Atlantic Highway (CA-9) and at La Ruidosa (Km 247) turn to the left and drive another 30 kilometers.

SERVICES

HOTEL	TELEPHONE	RATE (single)	FACILITIES
Hotel Banana Palms Aldea San Felipe de Lara www.bananapalms.com.gt	7930-5022 2331-2815	US$92 tax included	P, R, Pa, Hw, AC, Internet
Catamaran Island Hotel Rio Dulce Village www.catamaranisland.com catamaran@itelgua.com	7930-5494/5	US$68-72 (lake views available)Breakfast included	P, R, Hw, AC Transportation to and from the town of Rio Dulce (included) and Aeroclub landing strip (additional cost) Leave vehicles in the town of Rio Dulce, several parking lots available (including Super 24)
Denny’s Beach www.dennysbeach.com	5398-0908 7947-3930	Q50 (US$7)	R, Hw, AC, Internet Parking at Mariscos. Transportation to and from Aeroclub.
Hacienda Tijax Aldea Frontera www.tijax.com	7930-5505 - 07	US$34 cabins with private bathroom US$16 cabins with shared bathroom	P, R, Pa, Hw, Internet AC additional US$10 Just 6 of the 11 cabins with private bathroom have AC. Transportation to and from the town of Rio Dulce.
Hotel Marina Nana Juana Km. 274 Highway to Rio Dulce www.hotelmarinananajuana.com	7930-5230 2382-2121	US$61	R, P, Pa, Hw, AC, Internet Canopy, horse rides , canoes
Mansion del Rio www.mansiondelrio.com.gt	2335-3516	US$98	P, R, Pa, Ac, Internet

* P=Pool, R=Restaurant, Pa= Parking lot, Hw=Hot water, Ac=Air Condtiioning

El Boqueron Resort
These baths are located inside a canyon which is about 10 meters deep and the water is quite cold, contrasting strongly with the high temperature on the outside. The water here is completely clear, so you can observe many fish. The river narrows in the canyon and reaches depths of up to 5 meters. Individuals from the community take visitors in small boats to the canyon. When the boat reaches some large rocks, it can be tied up and you can climb up the rocks to see more of the river and the scenery.
Access: This swimming resort is 3 Km from El Estor and to get there, take the main road leading out of town towards the Rio Dulce. The entrance to the canyon is at a small turnoff to the left from the main road.
You can get to El Boquerón by bicycle or car. We would suggest you do it by bike, fording a couple of streams and seeing more of the countryside, but to do this at noon would be very hot. Bicycles can be rented in town.

Paraiso Plantation
The main attractions of this place are the hot waterfalls dropping into the cold water river in the midst of lush vegetation.
To visit the falls, you must first go to the plantation. If you are spending the night, no admission is charged. From the hotel you can get to the falls in your own car or in an ox cart. The cost of the ox cart ride is Q60 (US$8). If you take your own car, make sure you are given a ticket. Admission to the waterfalls: Q10 (US$1).
After parking the car or getting off the ox cart, take a trail to the falls. This trail is in excellent condition and not very long, but will present you with a great variety of plants. We recommend you wear shoes that can get wet, as at the end of the trail you have to walk a short distance in the river to get to the falls. And if you continue to walk in the river bed you will reach fairly large caves.
Access: A 45-minute drive from El Estor on the road to Rio Dulce. You can spend the night or just enjoy lunch, the menu includes sea bass, mojarra or chicken soup. Tel: (502) 7949-7131

SUGGESTIONS

• Check your fuel at the entry to the Rio Dulce.

• Take your own first aid kit for your stay at Selempin.

• Make sure they have anti snake venom shots at the Station or at least at El Estor.

• Take a mosquito repellent.

• If visiting during rainy season, take rubber boots and a raincoat